Summer Hat

I made this for Esther on Tuesday.  Even working without a pattern, it came together in about an hour.  I used less than half a skein of Berella 4 yarn.

I’ll edit with a gauge as soon as I find the blasted hat so I can measure it.  It’s very stretchy & forgiving, though.  It was made for Esther but even fit Linda’s big head.

Child’s Summer Hat

Materials:

2 oz worsted weight yarn

5.0 mm hook

Size: One size fits most children, at least through age 7.

Please note that the ch-2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Directions:

Chain 3.

1) Double crochet 10 times in the third stitch from hook.  Join into a circle with a slip stitch. (10 stitches)

2) *Double crochet, chain 1* in each stitch. (20 stitches)

3) *Double crochet twice in each double crochet, chain 1 & skip over each chain-1 space* around. (30 sts)

4) *Double crochet in one double crochet; double crochet twice in the next double crochet.  Chain 1 & skip over each chain-1 space* around. (40 stitches)

5)

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Linda’s Scarf Blanket

I made this blanket back when I got pregnant with Linda.  I didn’t write out a pattern for it at the time, because I wasn’t writing patterns back then.  This is incredibly easy, and the modular construction makes it both easy to carry and possible to work on even during the summer.  Except for when you are sewing it together at the end, there’s no big blanket sitting across your lap!  When you’re working on it, you’re only holding a piece about the size of a scarf; thus the name.

I’m providing a size for this blanket, but no gauge info, because this blanket is five years old and well-used & I’m not sure the gauge is still the same.  As you can see, it will be able to be used for many years (Linda still sleeps under it!).  Not bad for something so simple you could make it for your first project!

Materials

H hook

14.5 oz light worsted-weight yarn, total: 7 oz Color A; 7 oz Color B; 0.5 oz Color C  (When I made this, it was a two-skein project, because back then Simply Soft came in 7 oz skeins!)

Yarn needle

Directions: Make 4 of these Panels–2 in Color A & 2 in Color B

Chain 23.

1) Double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook (the first 3 chains will count as one double crochet) and in each additional chain.  Total 21 double crochets.

2 – 68) Chain three (counts as the first double crochet), turn.  Double crochet in the second stitch from hook and in each additional stitch.

At the end of row 68, do not finish off, but switch to Color C (the “right” way: with working color, yarn over, draw up a loop in the stitch, yarn over & draw through two loops on hook; switch to new color, then yarn over & draw through the final two loops on your hook).

Trim is worked with Color C as follows:

Chain three, turn.  Double crochet in second stitch from hook and each additional stitch.  At the end, turn the corner by clustering 3 or so stitches together as you turn your work (do it by feel).  Double crochet all the way down the side of the panel, placing two double crochets in the side of each row.  At the bottom, make another corner the same way as before.  Double crochet in each free loop left over from your starting chain.  Put in one more corner.  Double crochet up the side the same way you crocheted down the other one.  The last corner will probably require one less stitch than the other corners.  Finish off, and weave in any ends.

Assembly

Lay all the panels out as shown in the picture, long sides together.  With a long length of Color C, sew the panels together (I just did a simple back-and-forth catching the top loops of the DC in the trim; it looks better than you’d think).  Alternately, join Color C and slip stitch the panels together.  Weave in any ends.

Size

30 inches wide

32 inches long

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Alea’s Sweater

This is a pretty simple pattern which looks quite elegant.  I’d rank it perhaps advanced beginner; it’s not difficult at all.  The most complicated part is that it uses three different hook sizes.

aleas-sweater-2-small worsted weight yarn in two colors: 1 skein A & small amount B  (I used white & black Caron Simply Soft)
5.5mm hook
5 mm hook
4.5 mm hook
5 1/2″ (12 mm) buttons
stitch markers

Gauge: 9.5 rows of 8 sc = 2″, using 5.5mm hook

PM: place marker

With 5.5mm hook:Ch 48.

1) Sc in 2nd st from hook & in next 6 sts. Sc 3x in next st; PM in center st of this cluster.  SC in next 9 sts.  Sc 3x in next st; PM in center st of this cluster.  SC in next 12 sts.  Sc 3x in next st; PM in center st of this cluster.  Sc in next 9 sts.  Sc 3x in next st; PM in center st of this cluster.  Sc in last 7 sts.  Ch 1, turn.

2 – 11) Sc in each st to first marker.  Sc 3x in st w/marker (move marker up to center st of this cluster).  Sc in each st to next marker. Sc 3x in st w/marker (move marker up to center st of this cluster).  Sc in each st to next marker.  Sc 3x in st w/marker (move marker up to center st of this cluster).  Sc in each st to last marker. Sc 3x in st w/marker (move marker up to center st of this cluster).  Sc in each st to end.  Ch 1, turn.  {At the end of 11, ch 2 & turn.}

Change to 5mm hook.

12) Dc in the first 18 sts.  Remove markers from st 19 & st 51.  DC through both these stitches at once (just put the hook through both sts when you’d usually put it through just one).  DC in next 34 sts.  Remove next two markers & DC through both sts.  Dc in final 18 sts.  Ch 2, turn.

13) *DC in 8 sts; Dc twice in the 9th st* across.  Ch 2, turn.

14 – 29) DC in each st.  Ch 2, turn.  At end of 29, finish off.

SLEEVES~with 5mm hook

1) Join yarn in one of the arm holes, at the bottom.  Ch 2.  Dc in each st around.  Join to first st with slst.
2 & 3) Ch 2.  Dc in each st around.  Join with slst.
4) Ch 1.  *Sc in 6 sts.  Sc decl over next 2 sts* around.  Join with slst.
5 – 7) Ch 2.  Dc in each st around.  Join with slst.
8 ) Ch 1.  *Sc in 5 sts.  Sc decl over next 2 sts* around.  Join with slst.
9 – 11) Ch 2.  Dc in each st around.  Join with slst.
12) Ch 1.  *Sc in 4 sts.  Sc decl over next 2 sts* around.  Join with slst.
13 – 15) Ch 2.  Dc in each st around.  Join with slst.  At the end of 15, finish off.

Repeat on the other side.

BUTTON PLACKET~ with 4.5mm hook & Color B

1) With right side facing, join yarn at lower corner of sweater.  Single crochet evenly up the sweater, putting 2 sts in the side of each dc & 1 st in the side of each sc.  At edge of neckline, place 2 or 3 scs in the same stitch to negotiate the curve.  Sc evenly around the neckline, 1 st in each of the free loops of the turning chain.  Working back down the other side, after working around the corner as before, ch 1 & skip the side of row 2.  Sc in side of next row & each of next 3 rows.  Ch 1, skip the side of the next row.  SC in side of next 4 rows.  Ch 1, skip 1/2 of next DC row.  Continue in this fashion (with 4 Scs followed by a ch & skip 1/2 the DC row) until you have a total of five buttonholes.  Sc evenly down the rest of the sweater, across the bottom and back around to where you started.  Join with slip stitch.

2) SC in each SC to neckline.  Slst in first st of neckline; ch 3, DC in same st.  *Dc in one st, V-st {DC, ch 1, DC} in next st* to end of neckline.  Sc in each sc & ch-1 sp down side front of sweater, around to bottom of sweater.  Work the bottom of the sweater in the same fashion as the neckline (with 1 Dc, V-st) across to beginning.  Join with slst & finish off.

SLEEVE TRIM~ with 5mm hook & Color B

1) Join to first st with ch 1.  SC in each st around.  Join with slst.
2) Ch 3, DC in same st.  *Dc in one st, V-st in next st* around.  Join with slst & finish off.

Repeat on the other sleeve.

Finish by weaving in all yarn ends & sewing on buttons across from the button holes.

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Little Flower Baby Cap

This is another super-fast gift.  It is a wee bit more complicated than is typical for me, but still easy enough if you go slowly.

little-flower-hat-small

Newborn size.

5 mm hook
Worsted Weight Yarn
Gauge: 14 DC; 8 rows = 4″  (Easier: first round is approximately 1″ in diameter)

Ch 3.

1) In 3rd chain, DC 10 times.  Join with slst.
2) Ch 2.  DC twice in each st around.  Join with slst.
3) Ch 2.  *DC twice in one st, DC once in next st* around.  Join with slst.
4) Ch 2.  *DC once in each of 2 sts.  DC twice in following st* around.  Join with slst.
5) Ch 2.  DC in each st around. Join with slst to the front loop only of the first DC.

THE NEXT ROW IS THE PETAL ROW.  YOU WILL WORK THE SAME ROW THREE TIMES.  YES, THREE TIMES.  PAY ATTENTION, IT CAN GET CONFUSING.

6 a) (Bear in mind you’ve got a slip stitch in the first st, so it’s been worked.)  *Ch 5.  Skip next 3 sts.  Slst in front loop only of next st.*  So: you will have a sl st in every fourth Dc, and loops of chains.  At the end, slst around the first chain-5.

6 b) *Sc, Hdc, Dc, Tr, Dc, Hdc, Sc* in each and every ch-5 loop around.  At the end, slst in back loop of the first st.

6 c) Ch 2.  DC in each st around.  Be sure you Dc in the back loops of sts that already have a ch-5 loop anchored on them.  Join to first st with a normal slst.

7 & 8 ) Ch 2.  DC in each st around. Join with slst.

9) Repeat round 6 a, b, & c.

10 & 11) Ch 2.  DC in each st around. Join with slst.

12) Repeat round 6–A & B only.  Finish off after completing B.

Weave in all ends.

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Basic Baby Dress

This is a very quick pattern, made in worsted weight yarn.  It would be a great last-minute gift, as it can easily be made over the course of a weekend, if not a single day.

basic-baby-dress-2-small

5mm hook
worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft Brites, Rose Violet; less than 1 skein)
7/8″/22mm button
stitch markers
yarn needle

Gauge: 14 DC; 8 rows = 4″

Corner= 3DC in one st
Picot= Ch 4, slst in bottom chain

Chain 48

1) DC in second chain from hook & next 5 sts.  Dc 3x in next st, PM in middle st. Dc in next 9 sts.  Dc 3x in next st, PM in middle st.  Dc in next 12 sts.  Dc 3x in next st, PM in middle st.  Dc in next 9 sts.  Dc 3x in next st, PM in middle st.  Dc in last 6 sts.  Ch 2, turn.

2 – 6) DC in each DC before first marker.  Corner in marked st; move marker up.  Dc in each Dc between markers, cornering & moving markers as before.  Dc in last sts.  Ch 2, turn.

7) DC to first marker.  Remove first & second markers; Dc through both sts.  DC to next marker.  Remove it & last marker, DC through these sts.  DC to end.  Join with slst to first st in row.

FROM HERE ON OUT, YOU WILL WORK IN ROUNDS.  NO MORE TURNING.

8 ) Ch 2.  *Dc in one st, Dc twice in following st* around. Join with slst.

9 – 25) Ch 2.  Dc in each st.  Join with slst.

Edging: Picot in first st.  Slst in next 3 sts; Picot in 3rd st.  Continue in this fashion around to beginning.  Join & finish off.

SLEEVES:

1) Join to free st in armhole.  Ch 2.  DC in each st around.  Join with slst.
2 – 4) Ch 2. DC in each st around.  Join with slst.  Finish off at the end of round 4.

Weave in all loose ends.

Sew button at the neckline.  To button the dress, just slip the button between two sts on the other side of the neckline.

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Lots to Love Baby Doll Dress

This pattern is written without abbreviations, so that it’s appropriate for absolute beginners.  Gauge isn’t really important.  This dress fits the miniature Lots to Love babies.  I bought them for my girls for Christmas, and had to rectify the fact that they had on merely diapers & towels.

lots-to-love-dress-3

H hook
small amount of worsted weight yarn–Color A
perhaps double that amount novelty yarn–Color B

With Color A: Chain 21

1) Half-double crochet in second chain from the hook.  Half-double crochet in each remaining chain.  You will have 20 Half-double crochets at the end. {When row 1 is facing you, with the tail at the beginning of the chain on the right for left-handers & on the left for right-handers, the right side is facing you.}

2) Chain one, turn.  Half-double crochet in each of the first three stitches.  Half-double crochet twice in each of the next three stitches.  Half-double crochet in each of next eight stitches.  Half-double crochet twice in each of next three stitches.  Half-double crochet in each of final three stitches.  Twenty-six stitches at the end.

3) Chain one, turn.  Half-double crochet twice in first stitch.  Half-double crochet once in next three stitches.  Chain five.  Skip three stitches. Half-double crochet in following (fourth from hook) stitch and in next eleven stitches.  Chain five.  Skip three stitches.  Half-double crochet in next three stitches.  Half-double crochet twice in final stitch.  Join to the first stitch in the row, forming work into a circle. Thirty-one stitches, including chains, at the end.

From here on out, you will work in rounds without turning.

4) Chain one.  Half-double crochet in each of the first five stitches.  Half-double crochet five times in the 5-chain space (you can put a stitch <i>in</i> each of the chains, but this is much easier).  Half-double crochet in each of the next eleven stitches.  Half-double crochet five times in the 5-chain space.  Half-double crochet in each of the final five stitches. Slip stitch into the first stitch again.  Thirty-one stitches at the end.

5 & 6) Chain one.  Half-double crochet in each stitch.  31 stitches at the end.

Switch to Color B like so: On last stitch of Row 6, pause when you have 3 loops on the hook & cut Color A. Holding Color B with a tail down alongside Color A, complete the stitch using the new yarn.  Tug the ends of the colors to tighten them (I usually tie them together).

7) Chain one.  Single crochet in each stitch.  Fasten into a circle by slip stitching in the first stitch of the row.  31 stitches at the end.

From here on out, you are working in rounds, not rows.

8 ) Chain two.  Double crochet twice in one stitch and once in the next stitch.  Continue in this fashion, with every other stitch having two double crochets, until you reach the end.  With some of the novelty yarns, the stitches are very hard to see, so bear in mind it’s hardly the end of the world if you have a couple extra or fewer stitches at the end.  Forty-five (approximate) stitches at the end.

Now, double crochet once in every stitch for 6 or 7 total rounds, or whatever looks good to you.  You might want to use a stitch marker in the last or first stitch of the round, as I lost track of the beginning of the round on the first dress I made.  When it’s long enough to suit, finish off & weave in all the ends you have thus far.

TIES: With Color A again, chain 25.  Slip stitch to free loop of beginning chain (at the neck side) and in each of these free loops around to the other side.  Chain 25 again, and finish off at the end.

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Basic Adult Hat

basic-adult-hat

This is one of those things for which a pattern isn’t really necessary, but can stand as a good jumping-off point.  The 10-st multiple is useful for any number of stitch patterns.  The basic suggestion for chaning it up: Do the increase rows in plain DC as instructed, & then whatever pattern stitch you desire for the straight-down part.

The only semi-fancy thing here is Front Post and Back Post double crochet.  On the off-chance you don’t know how to do these stitches, check out the instructions here.

The hat is worked in a continuous spiral.  Take note of the beginning portion of the gauge; the simplest way to make sure you’ve got the correct gauge is to just do the first round & lay a ruler across it.  Length is easily changed by  simply working for more rounds.

Basic Adult Hat

5.5 mm hook
WW yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in “lipstick print”; it’s quite warm.)
stitch marker
gauge: first round is 1″ in diameter; 8 rows of 13 sts = 4″

ch 3.

1) DC 10 times in last chain. PM in last st. (Move this marker up as you go.) (10)
2) DC 2 times in each stitch around. (20)
3) *DC 2 times in 1 st; DC once in next st* around (30)
4) DC in first st.  *DC twice in next st; DC once in each of next 2 sts* around to end; DC in last st. (40)
5) *DC 2 times in one st; DC once in each of next 3 sts* around. (50)
6) DC in first 2 sts.  *DC twice in one stitch; DC once in each of next 4 sts* around to end.  DC once in each of last 2 sts. (60)
7) *DC 2 times in one st: DC once in each of next 5 sts* around.  (70)
8 – 15) DC once in each st. (70)
16) *FPDC in one st; BPDC in next st* around. (70)
17 – 20) FPDC in each FPDC; BPDC in each BPDC around. At the end of round 20, finish off & weave in the loose end. (70)

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